When we decided to spend a whole month in my hometown on the East End of Long Island I was confident that we’d be able to fit in a visit to New York City. I lived in the city my whole adult life since starting my freshman year at NYU in 1990 (so, so long ago), and Chris had been living in New York for several years before we met and then moved to Los Angeles together in 2005. I was really looking forward to getting to see friends and former colleagues, visit museums, enjoy some great food, walk for miles through changing neighborhoods, and show the kids around.
The month ended up passing by so quickly, with visitors coming and going, that I realized a trip into the city just wasn’t going to happen. Once we were at my parents’ house it was hard to think about taking even a couple days away from my siblings and our 5-month-old nephew/cousin when we didn’t know how long it would be before we would see each other again. And to be honest, as much as I love New York and really wanted to get back in and see friends, it was also nice to just stay in one place and relax for a little while.
Our general plan after Long Island was to go to the DC area before heading back West, and eventually we decided to make overnight stops in New York and Philadelphia on the way. This raised an internal dilemma: as much as I wanted to get in touch with friends, I knew I would have little time to get together, much less see everyone I would have liked to. So instead, I took an all-or-nothing approach and didn’t let anyone know I was in the area until after the fact. It reminded me of when Chris and I eloped, which was the best decision but still not one made lightly, knowing that we were leaving people out. (To bring things full circle, my parents’ organized an awesome lobster bake wedding celebration the following summer at the same beach where Lobsterfest is held.)
So where do you park an RV in New York? About the closest you can get is Liberty Harbor RV Park in Jersey City, New Jersey, directly across the Hudson River from lower Manhattan. When we were in Niagara Falls we experienced some sticker shock at the prices of RV spots and kept driving without a second thought, but we barely blinked when it came to spending $100 a night for basically a parking spot with an electrical outlet. Given the cost of a hotel room in New York, as well as the cost and logistics of traveling into the city from further away, we knew that being able to park our home and leave the dogs in A/C for a few hours while we hopped on a ferry into the city was… well, we were willing to pay what they were charging. (There’s even a small grassy area with tent camping spots, if you really want to see New York on the cheap.)
We had arrived on Long Island by ferry at Orient Point, so this would be our first time taking the RV through and around New York City. Chris did an incredible job driving on the congested and bumpy roadways and bridges, while making sure we didn’t end up on a parkway by mistake and get stuck under a low bridge. I was extra vigilant about reading every sign along the way, although “follow all the trucks” was a good plan too. We took the Long Island Expressway to the Throgs Neck Bridge to the Cross-Bronx Expressway to the George Washington Bridge into New Jersey. After surviving all of that, Chris still had to navigate the rig (with towed Explorer) through narrow busy streets and construction in Jersey City. It was definitely one of the most intense 3 ½ hour drives we’ve made.
I lived in Manhattan and Brooklyn and was not very familiar with the other side of the Hudson River, aka New Jersey. Liberty Harbor is within easy walking distance to two ferry lines and the PATH train into Manhattan. The RV Park provides comprehensive information about the different transportation options, proximity, costs, and schedules. We didn’t have time to explore but were also right next to Liberty State Park, Liberty Science Center, and a ferry to the inspiration for all these names: the Statue of Liberty. I loved walking around the harbor, with everything from little sailboats and fishing boats to James Bond-worthy yachts; through brownstone-lined streets with neighborhood shops and restaurants; around sleek high-rises and green parks; and along the wide promenade with breathtaking views of Manhattan.
Since this wasn’t the first and wouldn’t be our last trip to New York and our time was limited, we decided to keep things simple and stick to Lower Manhattan. We also chose going into the city over visiting the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. From what I’ve read about the time and effort it takes to get through the ticket lines and security, plus the cost of the ferry, we decided to postpone that experience for when the kids are a bit older and can maybe appreciate it more. Instead, I used the Hamilton cast album as a basis to come up with a walking tour itinerary around Colonial New York sites and National Monuments to make a road schooling field trip.
We missed the morning commuting hours for the New York Waterways ferry right next to the RV park, but only had to walk 10 minutes around the harbor for the Liberty Landing Ferry. The passenger load was light at 10:30am, and included a family of German tourists who must have gotten the “stay in Jersey City” travel tip.
There’s nothing quite like approaching Manhattan from the water: taking in the skyline and the building details as you’re propelled closer over the waves; feeling a part of the New York Harbor activity with all the other ferries, tour boats, and sailboats on the Hudson; seeing shipping containers and the Staten Island Ferry framed by the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge in the distance.
We exited at the World Financial Center Terminal at Vesey Street, and were off on our walking tour. I’ve always loved the Financial District’s juxtaposition of historical buildings and narrow cobblestone streets crammed in with the relentlessly new. In just a few blocks you can you see both the still-operating tavern where George Washington held a farewell banquet for his troops, and the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere.
Below is a map with our major stops marked by stars, including lunch at The White Horse Tavern – Financial District, not to be confused with the original and esteemed White Horse Tavern in Greenwich Village. The food was unremarkable, but a great deal for a comfortable sit-down meal of a burger and pint of Guinness for $10, and the service was fast and friendly. I’m disappointed that I didn’t take as many pictures as I normally do during the day. We’re out of practice navigating busy city streets and were preoccupied with both checking Google Maps and keeping the kids from stepping in front of a taxi. I didn’t realize until now that I have no photos of the lovely City Hall gardens where we stopped for a view of the Brooklyn Bridge before returning to the ferry.
All in all, it was a great way for the kids to take in some history, earn a couple junior ranger badges, and just enjoy the buzz of walking around New York for a little while. I don’t know that we’ll be back with the RV – getting out of Jersey City was extra fun with delivery trucks double parked on both sides of the one-way street outside the RV park – but it was a memorable experience. I’m still sad that we didn’t get to see friends or explore more, but we love New York and will be back for a longer visit!